
Anthony Bourdain once said that visiting Tokyo is like taking acid for the first time—it changes how you see the world. My expectations were high, almost too high, like the start of an adventure that might be jinxed. Japan, however, unfolds itself like a Baumkuchen—a cake of endless, concentric layers, each one steeped in tradition, nostalgia, and a politeness so profound it borders on the surreal. It’s a landscape that mesmerizes and disorients, an intricate dance of contradictions: thrilling yet serene, unsettling yet soothing, strange yet familiar. And yes, undeniably mind-blowing.
I felt like I was always in a hurry, rushing to see as many places as I could squeeze into a single day. But the moment I stepped into a temple or a garden, everything shifted. Time slowed down, my heartbeat softened to a whisper, and the beauty around me stole my breath. The food mirrored this same philosophy. Simple, seasonal ingredients transformed into small, artful dishes. Each one arrived with a quiet sense of care, precision, and purpose, as if it carried a story of its own. These moments left me with a lesson: to slow down and approach life with intention, treating even the smallest acts with meaning and grace.
I spent 15 days immersing myself in Japanese culture, absorbing everything like a curious sponge. I wanted to experience bustling cities, to hike paths lined with Buddhist temples, and to learn their history while exploring the same paths where samurai once walked.
I arrived in Japan on the first of December, armed with a plan (a big thanks to Alex and all the bloggers out there!) Most of my itinerary was thoughtfully mapped out, and it served me well. But looking back, there are a few things I’d tweak. There are plenty learnings as well. Here’s my itinerary and a collection of tips and things I wish I knew before, tailored to each city.
Itinerary
General tips
Book restaurants in advance
Especially if you’re vegetarian or vegan, as those restaurants are often considered “fancy” and, like most places in Japan, tend to be small.
Here you can find my list of vegan, vegetarian and vegetarian friendly restaurants.
Plan your train and bus tickets ahead of time
Try booking tickets in advance at a station. The machines are available in English. Many trips require multiple tickets from different train companies for each leg of the journey. If you try to book online, you’ll need an account for each company.
Also, be mindful of ticket types—some routes require both a base fare and a limited express fare, meaning you’ll need two separate tickets. When in doubt, book at the counter; the staff are very knowledgeable.
Pick up tickets at vending machines
If you book tickets online, you can choose the option to pick them up at vending machines at the station. It’s convenient and helps you avoid lines.
Handle multiple tickets carefully
If your trip involves transfers, you’ll have multiple tickets. Insert all of them into the gate at once; otherwise, the gate won’t let you pass.
Get an IC card for your phone wallet
IC cards are incredibly convenient for public transport, and you can top them up with the exact amount needed for your ride.
Try the konbini stores
These convenience stores are not only affordable but also known for their high-quality products, including instant ramen 🍜. While you might need an app to translate ingredients, vegetarian options are available.
- Lawson: Great for bread, pastries, and gourmet sweets like melon bread, milk cream cake rolls, and dorayaki.
- 7-Eleven: The pickled plum onigiri here is a must-try.
- Family Mart: Famous for its bento boxes. We especially loved the tamago sando.
Additional perks at konbini
You’ll also find ATMs and printers inside most convenience stores.
Carry your phone charger You’ll find plenty of opportunities to use it on buses and trains.
I did a lot of shopping in Tokyo and can recommend the following stores:
- United Tokyo for casual clothes.
- Blue Jeans for Japanese denim.
- Uniqlo for base layers. They are cheaper than in other countries.
If you’re planning to visit Kyoto, I suggest skipping Senso-ji and heading to Kamakura instead. While Senso-ji is a beautiful temple, you’ll find more and larger temples in Kyoto.
Express Bus from Shinjuku to Minobusan
The express bus takes 3.5 hours and is very comfortable. It stops midway for a 15-minute break in front of a konbini, perfect for grabbing snacks and stretching your legs.
Accommodation in Minobusan
There are two great hotels to consider:
- Temple Hotel Habanobo: Located within the temple grounds, this hotel is more expensive. The staff don’t speak much English, but you can get by with a translator. Staying here gives you the chance to talk with the monks and ask them questions.
- Temple Lodging Shukubo Kakurinbo: A relaxing and welcoming place where the staff speak English.
Both hotels offer traditional Japanese rooms, onsens (which can be booked for private use), and include breakfast and dinner.
Morning Prayers at the Temple
Even if you stay at a different hotel, you can join the morning prayers at 5:30 AM. This is a unique experience I highly recommend.
Exploring the Area
During the day, visit the temples in the main area. If you’re up for it, climb 287 stone steps to enlightenment. Alternatively:
- Walk around the mountain to reach the main area.
- Take a lift from the parking lot.
The reward is the breathtaking temples at the top.
Hiking the Minobusan Trail
This 3-hour hike leads to the mountain’s summit. The trail is well-marked, and maps are available at the entrance.
- The left path is the easiest and most scenic, with many temples along the way.
- The right path is more challenging and not recommended for beginners.
At the summit, you may catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji if the weather is clear. Alternatively, you can take the cable car to the top, where there’s a small souvenir shop and a restaurant (open only on national holidays). If you’re hiking, bring enough snacks and water.
Navigating Buses in Kanazawa
Buses in Kanazawa can be tricky:
- They are often delayed, and not all have route numbers displayed.
- If you can’t read Japanese, stick to the loop buses (Left Loop: LR, Right Loop: RL) or any bus labeled “Kanazawa Station.” The loop buses are convenient for visiting tourist attractions.
Payment Tips for Buses
- IC cards are not accepted on most buses, though some accept Visa.
- It’s best to pay with cash, but you’ll need the exact change.
- Use the change machine near the driver at any time, then pay the fare when leaving the bus.
What to See in Kanazawa
- Kenrokuen Garden:
One of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, it’s a must-see. The garden is stunning in every season, especially in autumn. The entrance fee is ¥310. - Samurai and Geisha Districts:
Kanazawa has three Samurai districts and Geisha districts to explore.- There are only 14 geishas in Kanazawa, so experiencing a performance requires an advance reservation.
- You can still visit the districts to see the traditional houses and tea houses.
Local Specialties
Kanazawa is famous for its crafts, wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets), and gold leaf products—you’ll find gold leaf in almost everything!
Stay Near Gion District
I recommend staying near the Gion district. This area is filled with restaurants and shops and is conveniently located close to Kyoto’s main attractions.
Geisha Show and Tea Ceremony
If you want to experience a geisha show or a tea ceremony, make sure to book in advance.
Tips for Visiting Attractions
- Go early to every tourist attraction. Kyoto is extremely popular, not just with international tourists but also with Japanese visitors. To avoid the crowds, set an early alarm.
- Attractions in Kyoto are spread out, so it’s best to plan your route carefully.
Planning Your Days
To optimize my time in Kyoto, I divided my days into three areas:
- East Kyoto
- Central Kyoto
- West Kyoto
Eastern Kyoto
- Kiyomizu Temple
- Go around 7:30am to avoid the crowds.
- Next to it there’s a shopping district where you can buy traditional Japanese souvenirs.
- Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka
- Perfect for a morning walk and to grab coffee.
- Fushimi Inari Shrine
- You don’t need to go very early.
- You can walk up to the top and it takes around 45 minutes. The higher you go, the less people you’ll find. Perfect for photos.
Other temples you can visit in the area:
- Heien Jingu Shrine
- Ginkaku-ji Temple
- Keage Incline
- Nanzen-ji temple
- Honen-in Temple
Central Kyoto
- Nishiki Market
- Nijo Castle - has a beautiful garden
- Shimogamo Shrine
- Kihune Shrine
- Kyoto Imperial Palace
Western Kyoto
- Arashiyama Bamboo grove
- I arrived at 8:30am and it was not very crowded. I was able to take some pictures without people.
- Kameyama park
- It’s a nice place to relax, walk around and enjoy the view, specially in autumn.
- Togetsukyo Bridge
- It’s close to Arashiyama and leads you to the Monkey Park.
- Tenryuji Temple
- Kinkaku-ji Temple(Golden Pavilion)
- Preferably to visit it on a sunny day to see it shining.
- Ryoan-ji Temple
If you’re traveling from Kyoto to Osaka, consider making a stop in Nara. You won’t need more than 3 hours to explore the main attractions.
Main Attractions
- Todai-ji Temple
The largest wooden building in the world and a must-visit. Built during the Edo period, it features distinctive horns on the roof—a unique characteristic that makes it one of my favorite temples in Japan.- You can buy a bundle ticket to enter both the temple and the museum. The museum is small but showcases some incredible sculptures.
- Nara Park
A beautiful park where you can stroll and interact with the famous free-roaming deer.
Where to Eat
I found this ramen restaurant with excellent vegetarian options.
Pro Tip
Don’t miss the mochi here. They’re exceptional!
Here are my tips for Universal Studios Japan:
Arrive Early
Although the park officially opens at 8:30 AM, it actually opens earlier. I arrived at 8:30 sharp, and there were already people inside enjoying the roller coasters. If you’re an early riser, arriving earlier means you can enjoy the park with fewer crowds.
Install the App
Make sure to have the official app installed with GPS activated. As soon as you enter the park, head straight to the “timed area ticket” section and reserve your turn for Nintendo World. It has limited capacity each day, so prioritize this first.
Collecting Stamps
If you’re collecting stamps, you can get them at the exit in Guest Services.
Vegetarian Food
Vegetarian options are very limited. We ate at Saido, which was pricey but had good food. You’ll need a reservation to enter, so scan the QR code upon entering the park and select your preferred time.
Visit During Low Season I went on a weekday during the second week of December (low season) and didn’t need an express pass. While most rides had an estimated wait time of 50–80 minutes, we only waited about 25 minutes on average.
Bring Water
You can bring a bottle of water and refill it at stations throughout the park.
Save Time While Snacking
If you get hungry, grab a snack and eat it while waiting in line to save time.
Ride Rankings
Most Fun:
- Donkey Kong
- Flying Dragon
- Harry Potter in 4D
- Hollywood Dream: Backdrop (You get a quick but amazing view of Osaka from above.)
Entertaining but Not Amazing:
- Harry Potter Hippogriff
- Jaws
- Mario Kart
Rides I’d Skip:
- Minions
- Yoshi Adventures
Beppu is renowned for its onsens, offering 8 different types of hot springs. The most famous attraction is the “Hells of Beppu”, a collection of natural hot springs with varying colors and temperatures.
Visiting the Hells
- You can purchase a ticket to visit all the hells or choose specific ones.
- Allow at least 3 hours to see all of them, as they are spread out.
- Transportation: Use buses to travel between the hells, or walk if you’re up for a long trek.
- Hours: The hells close at 5 PM, so start no later than 2 PM if you plan to visit them all.
- Pro Tip: At the entrance, you’ll receive a stamp book to collect stamps from each hell.
The 7 Hells of Beppu
- Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell): Famous for its cobalt blue water.
- Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell): Features striking red mud, rich in iron oxide.
- Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell): A geyser that erupts every 30–40 minutes.
- Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell): Includes a large fish aquarium and green mud.
- Oniyama Jigoku (Crocodile Hell): Home to a crocodile farm.
- Oniishi Bozu Jigoku (Monk Heads Hell): Bubbling mud resembling monk heads.
- Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell): Offers steam cooking experiences using geothermal heat.
Nearby Attraction
Observatory Deck:
Located at the top of a mountain, this deck provides a panoramic view of the city with onsen fumes rising across the landscape.
Onsen Tips
Hotels with Onsens
Many hotels in Beppu offer public and private onsens. If you have tattoos, a private onsen is recommended. These can usually be booked at the reception and typically have a time limit of 30–60 minutes.
Traditional Onsen Experience
For a public onsen experience, visit Hyotan Onsen.
- It’s affordable, and you can even rent a private outdoor onsen for 90 minutes at approximately 15 euros.
- The private onsen includes access to a steam room.
- Booking: Reservations can be made up to a week in advance.
Fukuoka is known for its tonkotsu ramen and the yatai—the vibrant street food stalls that line the river. At these stalls, you can find a wide variety of foods, from ramen to yakitori.
Vegetarian Options
While Fukuoka isn’t particularly vegetarian-friendly, you can still find some options.
Pro Tip: Use a translator app to ask the chef for vegetarian-friendly dishes. They’re usually very accommodating and will do their best to make something that works for you.
Tax-Free Shopping
Since Fukuoka was my last stop, I took the opportunity to do some tax-free shopping. I found great deals at Aniz & Tulpe, especially for skincare products.